Selecting an appropriate tent/tarp
“Happiness is a dry, cozy tent.” Unknown author
Selecting a bushwalking tent or tarp can be a daunting experience. There’s a plethora of information on gear websites advertising specific brands, but sometimes it’s hard to figure out what is really important in a tent verses a new fad or fashion.
To help, we’ve produced this article. We are not going to tell you which tent to buy or even go through specific tent brands. Instead, you will learn about all core aspects of tents and tarps so you can choose a shelter that best suits your needs.
|Capacity and price||
How many people does it hold and does it provide value for money?
What weather conditions does it typically work well in
|Weight and pack size||What is the total weight including all pegs and poles, and how much volume does it pack down to|
|Doors and vestibules||Where are the doors located (one entrance or several) and is there a vestibule area to store wet and dirty gear|
|General ease of use and liveability||Is it generally comfortable and can you see yourself being able to bunk down in it for some time in bad weather?|
|Single and double layers||Is the fly and inner two separate parts or is there simply one waterproof outer layer? Does this match well to the typical conditions you’ll face? I.e. wet and humid (double) or cold and dry (single)?|
|Ventilation||Is there good ventilation to prevent condensation but also provide protection against windy conditions?|
|Materials||Are the materials lightweight and sturdy enough to meet your needs?|
|Pitching options||Are there different ways to pitch the tent to match the needs e.g. additional vestibule entrances?|
|Shape||How streamline is the shape and does it match the conditions you are likely to face?|
|Accessories - pockets etc.||What other perks does the tent have?|
Capacity and price Selecting the right sized and priced tent
We refer to the size of a tent/tarp in how many it sleeps. Sometimes, this means the configuration when people are side by side (2 person), sardined together (arranged head to feet), or in the case of the four person example below, three sardined and one perpendicular.
Tent/tarp capacity can vary greatly between tent/tarp designs, with some feeling a lot more spacious than others depending on floor area, height of tent, or how much space there is to store gear. Taller people may have trouble stretching out fully in some tents, but plenty of room in others. So the actual floor area measurements is something to keep in mind and compare between tents. Basically, it’s a matter of trying out a few different designs to get a sense of what works well for you.
As tempting as it is to get a three person tent for two people in order to have a roomy experience, remember that this adds considerable weight per person to your load.
Other things to consider:
- Tent height: Sometimes, bushwalkers retreat to their tents for the day (or several days) if the weather turns undesirable. Under these conditions, having room to sit up and move around makes for a much more pleasant experience, however, the trade off here is more material/poles means an overall heavier tent weight.
- Wall steepness: as above, less steep walls (such as a ridge or pyramid design – see chapter below) can mean less room to sit up in the tent (unless sitting in the very middle).
Price is definitely a consideration when it comes buying a tent or tarp, with prices ranging from Target’s $7 2 Person Dome Tent (not waterproof) right through to the MSR Remote 2 Tent at over $1100.
For some, a cheap 2-season option is the right thing, particularly if they are mostly walking in summer and dry weather. For others, that are tackling trickier terrain in more variable weather conditions, then investing in something that is lighter, smaller, more durable and able to withstand more extreme weather conditions is best.
The last thing to say is that there is no point in spending a fortune on the very best tent/tarp, and then being afraid to take it out bush for fear of damaging it! Buy something that you are comfortable with getting thrown around a little bit, after all, you’re bound to get dirty on a bushwalk! Do consider looking online for second hand well-loved (or not much-used) tents/tarps – you can save a lot of money and get a better tent/tarp than you could otherwise afford.
Season Choosing a suitable season
Tent season refers to the durability and safety of that tent in different weather conditions. For instance, a two season tent is one that is suited to calm summer conditions, whereas a four season tent can cope with significant snow and windy alpine conditions.
Tarps are generally for warmer conditions as they have open sides, so are not generally rated to a season in the same way that tents are.
As a general guide:
|2||For warm and favourable weather. Some can handle a small amount of rain and wind, but anything more is likely to damage tent materials or snap poles. Not generally recommended for most walking conditions.||Target’s $7 2 Person Dome Tent - Blue|
|3||Can handle heavy rain and windy conditions, and generally has stronger stitching and guy ropes designed for securing the tent. Materials are all generally stronger than 2-season tent.||MSR Hubba Hubba NX 2-Person Tent|
|3-4||In between 3 and 4.||NEMO Kunai 2P Tent|
|4||Designed for snow conditions and alpine areas with heavy snow and high winds.||The North Face Mountain 25 Tent|
Season rating chart
(adapted from https://www.campetent.com/family-camping-tent-ratings-by-season-and-weather.html)
|Feature||2-season||2-to-3 season||3-season||3-to-4 season||4-season|
|Design||Dome, cabin or instant||Dome or cabin||Dome or A frame||Dome or A frame||Dome or tunnel|
|Ceiling mesh||Lots||Lots||Some to lots||Some||May have vent controls|
|Rainfly||Half or 3/4||Half to full||Full||Full||Full|
|Rainfly & wall material||Nylon or polyester||Nylon or polyester||Nylon, polyester or cotton||Nylon, polyester or cotton||Nylon, polyester or cotton|
|Rainfly & wall waterproof rating||Up to 800mm||800 to 1200mm||1200 to 1500+mm||1500+mm||1500+mm|
|Floor material||Polyethylene (tarp)||Nylon or|
taffeta or oxford
|Floor waterproof rating||1000 to 2000mm||800 to 1500mm||1500 to 3000+mm||3000+mm||3000+mm|
|Guy-out loops||None or at tent corners||At each pole||One or more|
at each pole
|One or more|
at each pole
|One or more
at each pole
|# Poles (for|
|2||2 (low profile) to|
3 (high profile)
|Pole Material||Fiberglass||Fiberglass or|
|Carbon fibre, aluminum or|
|Aluminum or all steel||Aluminum or all steel|
|Vestibule||Not common||Not common||Common||Common||Common|
|Price vs size||Inexpensive||Moderate to expensive||Moderate to expensive||Moderate to expensive||Expensive|
Weight and pack size Tents come in all weights and sizes
Tent/tarp weight is an important consideration on overnight trips. Tent/tarp material and design can greatly influence the overall weight, and generally, the higher the price tag, the more likely the manufacturers have put effort into lightweight design.
Put simply, the larger the tent/tarp, the heavier it is in total (assuming same materials), however, if it sleeps more than one person, the carrying load can be shared and the overall weight per person is less.
Take for instance, the MSR HUBBA (lightweight and pricey) range:
- The 1 person ‘Hubba Nx’ weighs 1.12 kg (i.e. 1.12kg per person)
- The 2 person ‘Hubba Hubba Nx’ weighs 1.56kg (i.e. 0.78kg per person)
- The 3 person ‘Mutha Hubba Nx’ weighs 2.07kg (0.69kg per person)
Per person, the 3 person tent is the lightest, so if you regularly walk with other people that are happy to share a tent, then it might make sense for you to get a three person tent and share the load on the walk in and out. But on the other hand, if you can’t reliably find other people to share with, you’ll be carrying in more than 2kg of tent, so in this case a 1 or 2 person might be better. Also, if you prefer your own sleeping area at camp, a one-person tent may suit you best.
You may also come across the term ‘minimum trail weight’ which describes the total weight of a tent minus stakes, stuff sacks and any documentation. Realistically, you need to take into account the pegs, but it can be a helpful way of comparing between tent manufacturers. Some people do opt to replace the manufacturer’s pegs with lighter ones.
The types of trips you are doing and your budget will most likely depict the weight of tent you end up buying. In general, lightweight gear is much more expensive, but this in turn doesn’t indicate quality and durability to weather conditions alone. It’s important to also read about the seasonality of the tent to understand if it will suit.
Key areas that manufacturers reduce tent weight include:
- Fly and inner material – amount and type
- Pegs/Stakes – number and material
- Size and material of footprint or groundsheet
- Guylines – number and type of material
- Tent poles – length and material
- Packaging – bag size, material and weight
Each year, tent manufacturers bring out new tent models with slightly different designs saving a few grams here and there. The concept of ‘ultralight’ hiking has emerged and is a popular term to describe a philosophy based around reducing weight wherever possible. There are no exact numbers around what makes something ‘ultralight’ versus heavy, it really comes down to how the user describes it themself.
|Consideration||Ultra-lightweight tents (pros/cons)||Heavier tent options (pros/cons)|
|Weight||Light, ideal for longer trips, particularly across difficult or uneven terrain||Heavier, but often still fine for many types of ontrack overnight bushwalking experiences.|
|Price||Expensive, better choice for someone that is regularly bushwalking and knows exactly what they want and works well for them||Cheaper, easier as an entry level tent for beginners|
|Durability||Depends on fabric and seasonality of tent. There is a misconception that the lighter the material, the more likely it is to rip or degrade. This isn’t always true, it comes down to the seasonality of the tent and what it has been built for (a 4 season ultralight tent will fair much better in snow than a 2 season heavyweight tent).|
Here are some examples of different weight options and weight per person:
|Option||Example||Weight [kg] per person||Sleeps how many?|
|Ultra-light||REI Co-op Quarter Dome 1 Tent||1.3||1|
|Ultralight Insanity: NEMO Hornet 2P Tent||0.52||2|
|Heavier||Outrak Otus 1 Person Hiking Tent||1.92||1|
|Outrak Strix 2 Person Hiking Tent||1.35||2|
Some tents/tarps can be really bulky, while others pack neatly down. Pack size is again a trade off between price and capacity. Generally, more pricey tents/tarps use lighter materials that pack down into a small volume. And of course, tents/tarps with higher capacity will have a larger pack size due to the additional material.
It really comes down to what price tag you are willing to pay and what capacity you realistically need for an overnight trip, depending on if you typically camp solo or with a friend/partner.
Doors and vestibules Getting the right number of doors and right sized vestibule
Everyone needs to jump out of the tent at some point to use the bush bathrooms, having additional doors can make it easier to get in and out (and hopefully avoid the whole tent waking up during the night). Again, the trade off here is that more doors means more material and zips and hence overall heavier tent weight.
Consider the location of the door, some tunnel style tents will have doors at the end or on the sides. Side doors tend to be wider and allow access to the full length of the tent. Doors at the ends of the tent require more crawling or shuffling to access the main area of the tent. So it is worth considering what your agility will be like at the end of a days walking, or nights sleeping.
The vestibule area is handy for storing gear, or sheltering in rainy conditions. Vestibules are super useful for keeping wet gear outside and dry sleeping gear inside. Also useful overnight for preventing outdoor items like boots from getting wet from dew. Again, the trade off here is a larger vestibule means more material and overall heavier tent weight. This area is not idea for storing food or rubbish as it is still accessible by wildlife.
General ease of use How easy and liveable is the tent
Some tents/tarps are extremely liveable – easy to use, simple to pitch and pack down and rarely break. Whereas others can have one problem after another. When selecting a tent/tarp, it’s worth considering just how easy and liveable the tent is. Ask the following:
- How many people does it take to pitch it and will you always have this number of people willing to lend a hand?
- How easy is it to pitch and can you do it in the dark, wind and rain?
- Is it an intuitive design so that anyone in the group can pitch it?
- Is there space to store gear you and your gear comfortably?
- Will you be able to reliably find space to pitch it? For instance, it will be far harder to find a spot for a 10 person tent compared to two 3-man tents and two 2-man tents.
- Is there enough room to sit up and get changed?
Single vs double wall design Choosing between designs
Some tents have a double wall design with the outer and inner being separate, whereas others have just a single wall of waterproof material. Tarps always have a single layer.
The main advantage of a double wall is that it helps with ventilation, by creating a space for air flow that avoids moisture build up and dampness inside the tent. By comparison, a single wall tent is more prone to accumulate moisture on the inside (condensation in colder weather) but being only one layer, is a much more lightweight design.
Generally, single walled tents are best used in cool dry (less rain) climates such as alpine regions where rain (as opposed to snow) is unlikely and moisture build up can be controlled with good ventilation. Double walled tents are best for wet and humid conditions where you want to keep your gear as dry as possible and have space to store wet gear. For trips with wetter conditions forecast, select a double wall design. This will change over the years as the technology of the material allows it to become more breathable.
Ventilation Why ventilation is important
Good ventilation through a tent is important for two reasons:
- Prevents condensation forming on the inside of the tent, making your things wet and preventing wet gear from drying out.
- Prevents the tent getting stuffy, giving you fresh air to breath.
Condensation is the reverse of evaporation,condensation is where water dissolved in air condenses back into a liquid. When we breathe out, not only do we release carbon dioxide and nitrogen, but also some water in gaseous form also. As the hot air comes close to cold surface (i.e. the outer layer of a tent), it condenses and turns into a liquid. This is why we often find a layer of water on the inside of our tent in the morning.
The literature is ambiguous, but it appears that the average person can exhale anywhere from 250mL up to 2L of water per day, suggesting that over an 8 hour sleep period, there is a substantial amount of liquid that can condense. Good air flow throughout the tent is the easiest way to prevent condensation.
However, the trade off here is that any open air flap allows water or rain to get in, and lowers the overall temperature in the tent (a problem in alpine conditions where you’re trying to keep as warm as possible). So the key here is to select well placed air vents to maximise air flow, minimise condensation and prevent too much outside weather getting in.
A double walled tent design separates the inner (where your sleep) and outer by a wide air gap. Usually, the inner comprises of a series of mesh panels to allow for moist air to flow out of the sleeping quarters. This means that any condensation occurs outside the sleeping quarters minimising the chance of water condensing on sleeping gear.
Some things to look out for:
- Does the tent have a double or single wall design (i.e. is the outer separate to the inner)? If single, how likely is it that your gear will get wet inside?
- How many and where are the air vents placed?
- Can you access the air vents from inside the tent (e.g. Mont Moondance 2 internally assessed ventilation).
Condensation is less of a concern for tarp users because it has open walls so generally good airflow.
Materials Selecting appropriate tent materials
Tents are made of a variety of different materials and each of the main components of tents are different:
- Outer (or flysheet)
- Ground sheet
Certain materials are better suited than others, but usually with a trade-off for weight and cost.
Outer (or flysheet)
The key job of the outer is to provide shelter. Here are the different types of materials with pros and cons:
|Polyester||Polyester is one of the most common tent materials on the market today. It can be made to many grades and weights. Polyester behaves similarly to Nylon, however, it does not stretch as much nor is affected as badly by UV light.|
|Nylon||Nylon is extremely similar to polyester and another common material used by tent manufacturers. Nylon tents are typically coated with materials such as silicone, polyurethane or acrylic to enhance it’s waterproof properties. The big downside to nylon is the tendency for the material to ‘ladder’ with a hole or tear in the fabric. Some higher end tents have ‘ripstop’ thickener fabric to prevent holes damaging a large area of fabric, but cheaper ones generally do not.|
|Polycotton or coated-cotton||Polycotton is a lighter alternative to cotton with a rainproof coating.|
|Cotton||Cotton was the primary tent fabric of choice pre-1960s. Today, it’s only specialist manufacturers that tend to use cotton.
These tents are generally bulky and heavy so rarely used by modern bushwalkers that tend to favour lighter fabrics.
Cotton tents do not need an inner as it breathes well and rarely collects condensation. However, new cotton fabrics need to be weathered before use to prevent leaking: this is a process that involves soaking the material to allow the threads to mesh and become water-tight.
Ultralight-weight materials are increasingly popular with the bushwalking community. Some include
(adapted from https://www.theoutbound.com/addison-klinke/fabric-fabric-fabric-demystifying-5-common-ultralight-materials):
|Name||Weight (grams per square metre)||Description||Price|
|Gore Tex, eVent, and Momentum||~100 (varies depending on brand)||$$|
The key job of the inner is to provide comfortable sleeping quarters with a waterproof floor and breathable material such as mesh to ensure maximum ventilation. Cotton tents generally do not need an inner as they breath well, however, polyester, nylon and poly-cotton materials are common for tent inners.
Tent pegs and stakes can vary dramatically in size, weight and shape depending upon the materials used and what the intended purpose of the peg/stake is.
Here are some different options:
(Images source: campingworld.co.uk
|The Standard Roundwire Peg||This is by far the most common and abundant tent peg. It is sturdy, reliable and comes in a variety of sizes depending on the tent design.
In windy weather, consider using two pegs so that they cross over just below the surface to provide extra security and strength to the fixing.
|The Skewer Peg||Similar to the roundwire peg, this peg has a twisted design to provide extra traction and security in the ground.|
|The Ripple Peg||The ripple peg is good in sand or gravel because it has a larger surface area and greater drag resistance in both upwards and sidewards directions.|
|The Delta Peg (Ground Anchor)||Delta pegs work well in extreme conditions as they hold well under strain. It sits flush against the ground to reduce the likelihood of tripping over them!|
|Plastic Pegs||Plastic pegs are ideal for use in softer ground surfaces without rocks. Being plastic, they are lightweight and cheap. Bent pegs can be remoulded with boiling water.|
|Groundsheet Peg||The groundsheet peg is a flat design to hold a groundsheet down without presenting another trip hazard.|
|Halfround U Peg||These steel pegs are extremely strong for use on hard firm ground. This peg comes in several lengths.|
|Rock Peg||Rock pegs are specialised nails for hard surfaces. They can be banged into the ground using a hammer. Check if appropriate to use in your camping area (i.e. not appropriate in National Parks as this approach does not follow the Leave no Trace principles.|
|Screw type rock pegs||Similar to rock pegs, this variation has a screw thread for increased grip and stability. Again, check if appropriate to use in your camping area.|
|Screw Pegs||Screw pegs are not hammered into the ground, but instead screwed by hand (or using a cordless drill). They hold well in the ground and work well in moderately hard ground.|
|Biodegradable Pegs||Biodegradable pegs degrade naturally if left in the ground by accident. Not as strong as metal peg, but an alternative for festivals or camping in calm conditions. Even though they may degrade overtime, do not intentionally leave them behind.|
|Tent Stakes||Stakes are lightweight options common in backpacking and hiking tents. Extremely versatile and strong, these are great for saving on weight.|
|Harpoon Peg||Harpoon pegs grip soft ground well and provide a large surface area to prevent drag. Excellent on grass, gravel and sand.|
|Glass-reinforced plastic (GRP) or fibreglass||Fibreglass is one of the most common materials used to make tent poles as it is lightweight, cheap and flexible. The one disadvantage is that broken poles are a mess with lots of splinters.|
|Steel||Steel poles are strong but heavy. They are generally not very flexible, so usually only used on straight sections of tent (i.e. not dome tents).|
|Aluminium alloy||Aluminium poles are lighter than steel and flexible, and often used in lightweight overnight backpacking tents.|
|Carbon fibre||Carbon fiber poles are high end tent poles: lightweight, strong, flexible ... but pricey!|
Groundsheets (also called footprints when designed for specific tents) are used to protect the underside of the tent from damage and water, and can be made from a variety of different materials including PVC or Nylon. They help protect the tent from sharp rocks, sticks, spiky plants etc.
Breathable materials (e.g. polyester) are preferable as this keeps any grass or vegetation beneath the tent in better condition for future campsite users.
Some tents (e.g. MSR hubba range) have a footprint, which is a specially fitted groundsheet to the exact size of the tent. Being the correct size, it saves on weight and sits neatly, protecting the tent from water and damage.
Another lightweight option used by bushwalkers is Tyvek™ material. This is a lightweight building sheet that is extremely effective at providing a waterproof protective layer. It can be purchased by the metre and cut down to meet the exact dimensions you need, hence saving on weight. It’s also extremely cheap at less than $10 per metre.
Pitching options Different pitching options for tents
Tents have quite a few different pitching options depending on the size and style of tent.
One major difference between tent models is whether or not the tent is free-standing (e.g. MSR Hubba Hubba NX 2-Person Tent) versus a model that falls over when not pegged in (e.g. some Tunnel Tents). The advantage of a free standing tent is that you do not need to secure pegs into the ground to pitch it, meaning that you can easily shift it around, and also disregard a peg if it’s too tricky to put in (assuming conditions are fairly mild).
Another consideration is speed and difficulty of the tent setup. A tent that is quick and easy to pitch is far more desirable at the end of a busy day than one that takes physical and mental effort to erect.
For wet weather conditions, having a setup where the inner can be pitched after the outer is great because you can easy keep the inner dry and sheltered when pitching in heavy rain.
In general, a tent that has a few different pitching options and arrangements will ultimately give you more flexibility to match the tent set up to the specific settings (e.g. flexibility in pitching options for entrance and doors). However, in general, with more flexibility, comes more weight, so there’s a trade off to be made here, especially for overnight bushwalking.
Tarps also have a few different ways to pitch them, depending on their design and what is available to use to support the tarp.
|Name||Video example||Image||When’s it good|
|A-frame||http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXrapf_8WFM||Support on both sides of tree.
Conditions not too windy.
|Half pyramid||http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXrapf_8WFM||No trees to pitch tarp again. Windy conditions where you want to be protected.|
|Flying diamond||http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXrapf_8WFM||No trees to pitch tarp again. Windy conditions where you want to be protected.|
Shape Tents come in all shapes and sizes
The five most common tent designs for lightweight hiking are:
|Name||Image||Description||Pros||Cons||2 person tent examples|
|Geodesic||Geodesic tents achieve high strength and stability through the use of geodesic design, that is, a series of triangles formed by overlapping poles and minimal unsupported fabric.||- Strength and stability|
- Good for extreme climatic conditions including snow and high wind
|- Generally heavier due to extra poles and sturdier materials|
- Smaller frame to withstand strong winds (generally less than 150cm high)
Bora 2 Person Tent v2
Vango Halo 200 2 person
Exped GEMINI III
|Dome||Dome tents generally have two crossing poles and are freestanding, meaning that they don’t need guylines to hold in place. They are reasonably spacious, with relatively high ceiling so that tent feels spacious and sitting is comfortable.||- Free standing so can be pitched on ground that is hard to use pegs in|
- Can cope with change in wind direction
|- Small vestibule|
- Poles add weight to tent design
Target’s $7 2 Person Dome Tent - Blue
Roman Escape 2 Dome Tent
Explore Planet Earth Spartan 2 Person Hiking Tent
|Tunnel||Tunnel tents are spacious relative to their weight, often with large vestibule areas for storing gear and preparing food in bad weather. They are not freestanding, requiring pegs and guy lines to hold their position.||- Large vestibule, great for storing gear and preparing food in bad weather|
- Quick to pitch in poor weather (often the inner is stored within the outer, keeping it dry when pitching in wet weather)
- Large volume tent for low weight
|- Usually only one small entrance|
- Not freestanding, must be able to secure pegs
- Sensitive to changes in wind direction and strong side winds
Coleman’s Ridgeline 2P Hiking Tent
Vango Ark 200+ 2 Person
High End ($$$):
Nordisk Oppland 2 Si Tent
|Ridge||Traditional tent design commonly used by military in the past. Tent with two poles at either end with guy ropes supporting.||- Simple design, rigid poles can be replaced with sticks if poles forgotten or broken||- Not a lot of usable space in tent due to sloping walls||Nowadays, this is quite a unusual tent, so best to seek from a specialist supplier. (likely price $$$).|
|Pyramid||Simple design, common.||- Simple design, rigid poles can be replaced with sticks if poles forgotten or broken||- Not a lot of usable space in tent due to sloping walls||Budget ($):
Mid range ($$):
Luxe Mini Peak II
High End ($$$):
Ultamid 2 – Ultralight Pyramid Tent
Other types of tents include:
1. Pop up
2. Inflatable poles
3. Hybrid dome/tunnel tents
4. Single hoop
|Pop up||Popular with car campers, really quick setup and takedown.||- Really quick setup and takedown||- Not very stable in high winds or heavy rain|
- Bulky when packed down
|Caribee Get Up 2 Man Instant Pop-Up Camping Tent|
|Inflatable||Hybrid design, common with larger tents to provide more space in outdoor vestibule area.||- Extra space||- Probably need several people to pitch the tent (vestibule not freestanding)|
|Coleman Raleigh 5 Berth Dome and Tunnel Hybrid Tent|
|Hybrid dome/tunnel||Hybrid design, common with larger tents to provide more space in outdoor vestibule area.||- Extra space||- Probably need several people to pitch the tent (vestibule not freestanding)|
|Coleman Raleigh 5 Berth Dome and Tunnel Hybrid Tent|
|Single-hoop design||Common design for 1 or 2 person tents, the single hoop is a simple design to provide additional space.||- Really quick setup and takedown|
|- Not a lot of room inside the tent||Vango Zenith 200 2 man berth person camping backpacking hiking tent - 2017|
|A-frame||Classic style of tent.||- Really quick setup and takedown|
|- Not a lot of room to sit up in the tent||Eureka Timberline - Tent|
|Trekking pole tent||Set up using trekking poles, which saves weight of carrying regular tent poles.||- Really quick setup and takedown|
|- Many have a small area inside the tent||MSR’s FlyLite tent|
Accessories Some extra features to consider on tents
Some additional features that are worth keeping an eye out for are things like the number of windows and location of storage pockets.
Tents get messy quickly with gear strewn everywhere so it can be helpful to use storage pockets to keep things in check. Also, very handy for keeping torches and glasses overnight for ease of locating in the dark!
Some tents have windows on the side that provide great scenic viewing, as well as ventilation opportunities (particularly in larger tents).